Cinco Leches Cake

Using a vegetable peeler, remove zest from orange and lime in wide strips, leaving white pith behind. Transfer to a large measuring cup or medium bowl. Whisk in evaporated milk, cream, condensed milk, and coconut milk. Let sit until ready to use.

Arrange a rack in center of oven; preheat to 350˚. Grease bottom of springform pan with oil. Heat whole milk and remaining ¼ cup oil in a small saucepan over medium, stirring, until oil is melted. Let cool.

Whisk flour, baking powder, and cinnamon in a small bowl. Sift through a fine-mesh sieve onto a piece of parchment or waxed paper.

Using an electric mixer on low speed, beat eggs in a large bowl, gradually increasing speed to medium-high, until broken up. Add salt and continue to beat until beginning to foam. Reduce mixer speed to low and gradually add sugar; increase speed to high and beat until very light and pale yellow, 3–4 minutes. Reduce mixer speed to low again and beat in cooled milk mixture and vanilla until combined. Gradually add dry ingredients, using parchment to help you pour in a steady stream without getting it all over the outside of the machine, and continue to beat on low speed until no lumps of flour remain. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl with a spatula, give batter a good stir, then scrape into prepared pan.

Bake cake until top is golden and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 15–25 minutes. Let cool 30 minutes.

Using a wooden skewer or toothpick, poke holes into entire surface of cake, making sure skewer hits bottom of pan. Slowly pour some milk-zest mixture over cake, allowing milk to be absorbed by cake before pouring more. Cover with foil or plastic wrap and chill 8–12 hours.

Fit a small saucepan with candy thermometer. Bring sugar and ¼ cup water to a boil, occasionally swirling syrup in pan, until thermometer registers 240˚.

Meanwhile, using an electric mixer on high speed, beat egg whites in a medium bowl until medium peaks form. As soon as syrup reaches 240˚, with mixer on medium-low speed, pour syrup in a slow, steady stream over egg whites and beat until incorporated. Add cream of tartar and salt. Increase speed to high and beat meringue until very thick and glossy, stiff peaks form, about 4 minutes (bowl will be warm to the touch).

Run an offset spatula around edges of pan to loosen cake. Using a fish spatula or 2 large spatulas, carefully transfer cake to a platter. Using offset spatula or the back of a spoon, spread meringue over top and sides of cake, swirling decoratively. Toast meringue with kitchen torch, if desired.