Honey-Wheat Pretzel Twists

Warm the milk in a small saucepan over low heat until it reaches between 100 and 115°F/38 and 45°C. Immediately pour the warm milk into the bowl of a stand mixer or a large bowl and sprinkle in the yeast. Add 1 tbsp of the honey, stirring until it is dissolved. Allow the yeast to bloom until it is foamy, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tbsp of honey, the all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, butter, and fine sea salt to the yeast mixture and stir to form a shaggy mass. Attach the bowl and the dough hook to the stand mixer and begin kneading on medium-low speed. After about 1 minute the dough will form a smooth ball. The dough should be quite firm and may be slightly tacky, but not sticky. (If it is sticky, add a little more flour, about 1 tbsp at a time, and knead it in until the dough is smooth. If the dough is too dry to come together, add more water, 1 tsp at a time.) Continue kneading the dough on medium speed until it is elastic, 5 to 7 minutes. Alternatively, turn the shaggy dough out onto an unfloured work surface and knead it by hand.

Choose a bowl that will be large enough to contain the dough after it has doubled in size, and lightly grease it with butter. Transfer the dough to the greased bowl and cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Set the dough aside at room temperature (in a warm spot) to rise until it has doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Line two 12-by-17-in/30.5-by-43-cm rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.

Turn the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and press it down to deflate. Cut it into four equal portions, and divide each portion into five small chunks of dough. Work with one piece of dough at a time and keep the rest covered with a damp, clean kitchen towel. Pat a piece of dough down with your fingertips and then roll it up tightly, beginning with a long side, into a cylinder. Shape the dough into a rope 20 in/50 cm long by rolling it against the work surface with your palms, working from the center of the dough to the ends and applying light, even pressure to avoid tapering them. If you need more friction, spray the counter with a little water from a squirt bottle or drizzle a few drops of water and spread it with your hand. It is important that the dough be rolled out to the correct length or it will be too thick to harden while baking. Roll another piece of dough into a rope in this same manner. Twist the two dough ropes together sixteen times, spacing the twists out evenly. Place the twisted dough rope on one of the prepared baking sheets and cover it with a damp towel. Repeat this process with the remaining dough, spacing out the ropes on the baking sheets at least 1 in/2.5 cm apart and covering them with a damp towel.

When the first baking sheet is filled with five twisted ropes, transfer the tray to the refrigerator while you shape the rest of the pretzels to prevent the first batch from overproofing. When all the pretzels are shaped, you will have ten twisted ropes. Place both trays out, covered, at warm room temperature to rise until they have doubled in size, 30 to 40 minutes. (The pretzels can be refrigerated at this point, covered tightly with plastic wrap, for up to 8 hours before dipping and baking them.)

At least 20 minutes before baking, do two things: First, position one rack in the upper third and another rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat it to 325°F/165°C/gas 3; second, prepare the boiling water for dipping.

Bring the water to a gentle simmer in a large pot. Just before dipping the pretzels, use a pizza wheel or sharp knife to cut each dough rope into four segments about 5 in/12 cm long. Working in four batches, use a large skimmer to drop the pretzels gently into the water. Leave them in the water for about 20 seconds, carefully turning them once after 10 seconds. Remove the pretzels from the water, drain, and return them to the baking sheets, spacing them out at least 1/2 in/12 mm apart. If the twists unwind, simply retwist them. Repeat with the remaining pretzels. Brush the tops of the pretzels with a light coating of the egg wash and sprinkle them with coarse salt.

Bake the pretzels for 20 minutes, and then rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom. Continue baking until the pretzels are deeply browned, about 17 to 25 minutes more. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and allow the pretzels to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, test a pretzel for doneness by breaking it in half. If the center is still a little chewy, reduce the oven temperature to 300°F/150°C/gas 2 and return the pretzels to the oven to finish hardening to a crisp. This could take anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes more. (Note that if you have some thicker pretzels and some thinner, the thinner ones may be done, while the thicker ones need a little more baking.) Test a pretzel after about 10 minutes, and in 5-minute increments after that. When they are hard, transfer the pretzels to a cooling rack. Once they are completely cooled, store them in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.