Queso

Time to do a little knifework: Peel and finely chop 1 small onion. Peel 3 garlic cloves. Finely chop ⅓ cup pickled jalapeños.

Using a box grater, coarsely grate 8 oz. American cheese (or tear if using singles) and 8 oz. Monterey Jack cheese (you should have about 4 packed cups). Set aside separately.

Heat 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a medium saucepan over medium until foamy, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-low and add onions. Using a Microplane, finely grate garlic into pot; season with 1 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender but haven’t developed any color, about 3 minutes. Add 2 tsp. ground cumin and ½ tsp. cayenne pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1¾ cups milk and bring to a bare simmer.

Meanwhile, whisk 1 Tbsp. cornstarch and remaining ¼ cup milk in a small bowl until smooth. By mixing the cornstarch with a portion of the milk before adding it into the pot, you greatly reduce your chance of lumps. (You can also shake milk and cornstarch together in small lidded jar.)

Add cornstarch mixture to pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is thickened (it should coat the back of your spatula) and cornstarch is hydrated—it should simmer for 1 full minute. This is important: If your cornstarch isn't fully hydrated, your queso will be grainy and floury rather than thick and creamy.

Reduce heat to medium-low and add American cheese. Stir vigorously with a spatula, taking care not to let mixture bubble, until cheese is fully melted, about 3 minutes.

Add Monterey Jack cheese one handful at a time, stirring vigorously to incorporate fully before adding the next and adjusting heat as needed so mixture doesn't bubble, about 30 seconds between additions and 4 minutes total. After adding all the cheese, stir vigorously to ensure that all cheese is melted, about 1 minute (it will look thick and stringy).

Remove from heat and stir in 1 Tbsp. pickling liquid and half of jalapeños. Taste and add more salt if needed. Garnish with remaining jalapeños.

Arrange chips on a platter or baking sheet. Serve queso right out of the pot so it stays warm and can be easily reheated over medium-low heat if needed. If you’re feeling real extra, set pot over another pot or large bowl filled with hot water so it stays gooey for longer.