Smoked Beef Ribs

Grind peppercorns in spice mill or with mortar and pestle until coarsely ground. Transfer to a small bowl; add salt and stir to combine. Slather ribs with hot sauce and sprinkle all of salt mixture all over ribs.

If using a charcoal grill, soak wood in water and fill chimney starter halfway up the side with charcoal; light and let burn until coals are covered with a thin layer of ash. Pour contents of chimney onto one side of grill. Arrange 3 chunks of wood or a handful of chips on top of coals. Place grate on grill and cover grill, positioning vent on lid as far from heat source as possible. (This will help draw the smoke up and over the meat as it rises.)

If using a gas grill, prepare grill for medium-low, indirect heat, leaving one or two burners off. Place wood chips in smoker box and set over direct heat; cover grill.

Stick an ovenproof probe thermometer through top vent if your grill has one. Let fire cool until thermometer registers 250–275°, adjusting vents on bottom and top of grill or control knobs as needed to maintain temperature, about 30 minutes.

Grill ribs bone side down over indirect heat, leaving a small gap between each to allow smoke to circulate, and replenishing wood and adding a coal or two of unlit charcoal as needed, until a nearly black crust forms all over ribs and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of each piece registers 185°, 2½–3½ hours.

Remove ribs from heat, wrap them individually in foil and return to grill grates. Continue to cook over indirect heat, lowering heat as needed to maintain a temperature as close to 225–250° as possible (or transfer to a 225° oven), until ribs are fork-tender and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of each piece registers 195°, 2½–3 hours longer. Let rest in foil 20 minutes before serving.