True Vanilla Ice Cream

Combine cream, milk, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan. Scrape in seeds from vanilla bean; add pod or add vanilla extract. Bring mixture just to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat. If using vanilla bean, cover; let sit 30 minutes.

Whisk egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl until pale, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in ½ cup warm cream mixture. Whisk yolk mixture into remaining cream mixture. Cook mixture over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thick enough to coat a wooden spoon, 2–3 minutes.

Strain custard into a medium bowl set over a bowl of ice water; let cool, stirring occasionally. Process custard in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to an airtight container; cover. Freeze until firm, at least 4 hours and up to 1 week.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Cook 1 1/2 cups halved pitted cherries, 2 tablespoons sugar, and 1 tablespoon water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until syrupy, 8–10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1 tablespoon bourbon; let cool. Process custard and fold in cherry mixture just before transferring to freezer.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Strain hot custard over 6 ounces chopped bittersweet chocolate in a medium bowl; let stand 5 minutes, then whisk to combine. Let cool over a bowl of ice water. Process custard, adding in 1 cup chopped malted milk balls at the end.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Mix 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder into strained, hot custard until dissolved; cool over ice bath. Once custard is frozen to desired consistency in ice cream maker, gradually pour in 3 ounces melted bittersweet chocolate; process until ice cream is flecked with chocolate, 2 minutes longer.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Once custard is frozen to desired consistency in ice cream maker, add 1 cup chopped unsalted raw pistachios; process just until combined.