Clams With Soba

Fill a large bowl with cool water and add a handful of salt, swishing with your hands to dissolve salt. Place clams in a colander, lower into bowl of salted water, and let sit 15 minutes to get rid of any grit. Drain and rinse clams, then repeat with fresh cool water and salt.

If a lot of grit remains after the second round, repeat once more. Set drained clams aside.

Meanwhile, thinly slice garlic, ginger, and 8 scallions. Heat oil in a medium pot over medium-low. Add garlic, ginger, sliced scallions, and a small pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but no color has developed, 6–8 minutes.

Cook soba in a large pot of boiling water, stirring occasionally, according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cool water, gently tossing to get rid of any excess starch. Drain well and transfer to a medium bowl. Add sesame seeds and toss to combine. Divide soba among bowls.

Add sake and clams to garlic mixture, increase heat to high, and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Steam clams, covered and occasionally shaking pan back and forth just like when you pop popcorn, 5 minutes. Uncover pot and transfer opened clams among serving bowls, dividing evenly. If there are any unopened clams, cover pot and continue to steam, checking for and removing any opened clams every two minutes; discard any unopened clams after 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, thinly slice remaining 2 scallions on a diagonal and reserve for garnish.

Whisk miso into clam broth until dissolved. Add 2½ cups water and bring to a boil. Taste and add more water to broth if it’s too salty. Whisk in butter until combined.

Divide broth among bowls. Garnish with reserved scallions.

Do Ahead: Clams can be soaked and cleaned 12 hours ahead. Chill on a damp towel-lined baking sheet.