Coconut-Chile Palapa Sauce

Cut coconut in half by holding it in one hand and striking firmly with the back (blunt side) of a heavy knife or cleaver, rotating the coconut and hitting around the equator until it splits. Whack coconut halves with the back of knife to loosen meat from shell. Shred coconut meat using the large holes of a box grater or the shredding blade of a food processor.

Pulse chiles in a food processor until finely chopped (this is to save your hands and nose from their intense heat; if you chop by hand, use gloves!). Transfer to a small bowl.

Grind mushrooms in spice mill or with mortar and pestle (you can also use food processor again) until reduced to a powder.

Toast coconut in a dry wok or large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until deeply browned in spots (just this side of burnt) 15–20 minutes. Transfer to another small bowl.

Heat oil in wok over medium-low. Cook garlic, ginger, and scallions, stirring constantly, until very fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in chopped chiles, mushroom powder, toasted coconut, lime leaves, sugar, and salt. Cook, stirring often, until golden brown and very aromatic, about 5 minutes. Let cool before serving.

Do Ahead: Palapa can be made 3 months ahead. Cover and chill.