Fideos With Chicken Thighs and Kale

Place a rack in top third of oven; preheat to 375°. Pat chicken dry. Combine 2 tsp. salt and ¼ tsp. hot smoked paprika in a small bowl. Sprinkle all over chicken thighs.

Pour ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil into a large (12") skillet. (Either stainless steel or cast iron will work here!) Arrange chicken skin side down in oil. Turn heat to medium and cook, undisturbed, until chicken has rendered some fat and skin is golden brown, 10–12 minutes. Remove from heat and return to plate skin side up, leaving all that schmaltzy fat in skillet.

While chicken sears, break 8 oz. thin spaghetti into a bowl into ½"–1" pieces. Using your hands, scrunch broken pasta in bowl to further break it up. Peel and grate 2 onions on the large holes of a box grater. Peel and grate 6 garlic cloves on the small holes of grater. Run your knife through grated onion and garlic a couple of times to make sure no big pieces remain.

Add broken pasta to skillet and toss to coat in fat; season with ½ tsp. salt. Cook over medium heat, tossing constantly, until golden brown, 2–3 minutes. Cut the heat, tilt skillet away from you so the fat pools at one end, then use a slotted spoon to scoop out toasted pasta and transfer back to bowl, leaving as much fat in pan as possible.

Return skillet to medium-low heat, add onion, garlic, 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, ¼ cup tomato paste, and 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil to skillet and cook, breaking up anchovies and stirring often, until completely softened, jammy, dark red, and fat has broken out of the mixture, 13–15 minutes. Reduce heat if the veg are browning too quickly and be sure to take your time—the soffrito is what provides the fideos with depth and richness.

Meanwhile, strip leaves off stems from 1 bunch Tuscan kale; discard stems. Rinse kale (no need to dry). Coarsely tear leaves. Crush ⅓ cup Castelvetrano olives, pry out their pits, and tear in half. Cut 1 lemon in half and set aside.

Add remaining 1 Tbsp. hot smoked paprika and cook, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Squeeze in juice of ½ lemon, scraping up any darkened bits on bottom of pan. Add 2 cups water, increase heat to medium-high, and bring to a simmer. Add kale and cook, tossing occasionally, until wilted, about 2 minutes.

Stir in olives and toasted pasta, along with any fat still clinging to bowl. Stir to combine, season with salt, and spread in an even layer. Arrange chicken on top (skin side up), pressing gently to tuck into pasta while leaving skin exposed. (Night, night chickadee!) If needed, add just enough water to barely reach top of pasta, leaving the tops sticking out. Drizzle remaining 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil over pasta and chicken.

Transfer skillet to oven and bake until chicken is cooked through, pasta has absorbed the cooking liquid, and top and edges have developed some crunchy bits, about 25 minutes. (You’ll see some fat sizzling on top of the skillet, that’s perfect.)

Let rest 15 minutes. Divide chicken and fideos among plates. Cut remaining lemon into wedges and serve alongside.