Frijoles Peruanos (Peruvian Refried Beans)

Place 1 lb. dried canary (mayocoba or peruano) beans in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot and pour in water to cover by 3". Cover pot and soak beans in refrigerator at least 8 hours and up to 1 day.

Drain beans and return to pot. Pour in fresh water to cover by 3" and add a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until beans are tender, 40–55 minutes. Drain beans, reserving 1½ cups bean cooking liquid. Set pot aside.

Transfer 2 cups beans (leave remaining beans in colander) and reserved bean cooking liquid to a blender. Blend on low speed until smooth. Set purée aside.

Heat 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil in reserved pot over medium. Add 8 oz. thick-cut bacon (about 3 slices), cut into ½"-thick pieces, and cook, stirring often, until deeply browned and crisp, 5–7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a bowl.

Add ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter to fat in pot and heat until melted, about 30 seconds. Add 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped, 1 Tbsp. ground cumin, 1½ tsp. dried oregano, and 1½ tsp. onion powder and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add whole beans and reserved bean purée and cook, stirring constantly and smashing whole beans slightly with spoon or a potato masher, until butter is incorporated and beans begin to bubble, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Taste refried beans and season with more salt if needed. Scatter reserved bacon on top.