Baked Whole Wheat Bread

1. Place _chapati_flour (or whole wheat mixed with all-purpose flour) in a bowl. Add water, pouring it fast at first, to moisten the flour enough that it adheres into a mass; then slowly, little by little, until the dough is formed and can be kneaded.

2. Place the dough on the work surface and knead for 10-15 minutes, or mix and knead the dough in the food processor. This will be a very soft and pliable dough, quite sticky to the touch. Put the dough back in the bowl, cover with a moist towel or a sheet of plastic, and let it rest, preferably in a warm place, for at least 1/2 hour. (The dough may be made a day ahead and refrigerated, tightly sealed in foil. Remove from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before you are ready to roll it.)

3. Put the flour for dusting in a plate or a shallow bowl and keep it close to the work surface where you are rolling the dough. Knead the dough again for a minute, and divide it into 2 equal portions. Using your hands, roll each into a rope, cut into 12 equal parts, and roll the small pieces into smooth balls (or pinch off small pieces of dough from the rope, and roll them into 1-inch balls). Dust the balls lightly with flour to prevent their sticking to each other, and put them back in the bowl. Keep the bowl covered loosely, with a damp towel or a sheet of plastic wrap to prevent the dough's drying out.

4. Start heating the griddle or frying pan over medium heat. Working one at a time, pick up a ball and place it on the dusting flour. Press the ball lightly but firmly, both to flatten it into a round pillow and simultaneously to coat the underside with flour. Turn and repeat, to coat the other side with flour. Pick up the patty with your fingers, shake it gently to release any excess flour, and place it on the work surface.

5. Roll the patty into a very thin 8-9-inch circle, pressing and stretching with the rolling pin with a brisk back-and-forth motion, going from edge to edge to keep it circular. Dust the dough from time to time to prevent its sticking to the work surface or rolling pin. Those of you familiar with Mexican or Chinese cooking techniques will notice that the rolling of this bread is very similar to the rolling of the Mexican wheat flour tortilla or the Chinese pancakes that traditionally accompany Roast Peking Duck or "Moo Shu" dishes. (Bear in mind that this method of rolling is altogether different from the familiar technique used for pies, tarts, and quiches. There you position the rolling pin in the center and roll the dough away or twoard you, thus spreading and not stretching the dough.)

6. Lift the bread gently, place it on the hot griddle, and bake until the side in contact with the griddle is cooked and several tiny brown spots appear. Flip the bread, using a pair of unserated tongs, and bake the other side the same way. (Generally, when the griddle temperature is right, the first side of the bread will take about 20-30 seconds and the second side 8-10 seconds. But if it is too hot, the bread will brown too fast and burn before cooking.; if it is not hot enough, it will take too long to brown, by which time the bread will become dry, tough, and leathery. Therefore it is essential to check and keep the griddle at the right temperature at all times.)

Take the bread out, and if desired, brush with clarified butter or shortening. Place it in a covered dish, preferably lined with a kitchen towel. Repeat with the rest of the dough the same way. As the breads are baked, pile them one on top of the other in the dish. (The dish is lined because as more and more breads are piled in the dish, the steam from the breads begins to condense and accumulate at the bottom, which could cause the bottom few breads to be soft. The towel absorbs the moisture, preventing such a disaster.)

Chapati goes well with just about all dishes. It is usually served when a light meal is intended. It is also a good choice when the main dish is rich with butter, cream, and nuts. Since there is no fat or oil in the bread, it provides the needed balance against rich dishes.