Paella

Pour the oil into a 16-inch paella pan set over medium-high heat. Fry the onion until soft, stirring often. Stir in the garlic, and before it begins to color, add the tomatoes. Add the sugar, pimentón (or paprika), saffron, and salt to taste, stir well, and cook until the tomatoes are reduced to a jammy sauce and the oil is sizzling. Add the squid and cook, stirring, for a minute or so. Add the rice and stir well until all the grains are coated. (You can prepare the dish to this point up to an hour in advance.)

Bring the stock and wine to a boil in a saucepan. Pour over the rice, bring to a boil, and add salt to taste (even if the broth tastes a bit salty, it will not be salty when it is absorbed by the rice). Stir well and spread the rice out evenly in the pan (do not stir again). Cook the rice over low heat for 10 minutes, moving the pan around and rotating it so that the rice cooks evenly. Lay the shrimp on top and cook an additional 8 to 10 minutes, turning the shrimp when they have become pink on the first side. Add a little more hot stock toward the end if the rice seems too dry and you hear crackly frying noises before it is done. When the rice is done, turn off the heat and cover the pan with a large piece of foil.

Bring ½-inch water to a simmer in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add the mussels and steam, checking every 3 to 5 minutes. As soon as they open, they are cooked. Throw away any that do not open after 10 minutes. Arrange the mussels on top of the paella. Garnish with chopped parsley and lemon wedges for squeezing, if using.