Risi e Bisi (Italian Rice and Peas)

Cut scallions crosswise into 3" pieces, then cut each piece lengthwise into thin strips.

Heat ¼ cup oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium-high. Add scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisped and golden brown in spots, 4–6 minutes. (They’ll soften at first but will crisp up eventually.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer scallions to paper towels to drain; season with salt. Pour off oil into a small bowl; set aside for later. Reserve saucepan.

Bring broth to a simmer in a medium pot; keep warm over medium-low heat.

Return saucepan to stove and add pancetta and 2 Tbsp. oil. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fat begins to cook out, about 3 minutes.

Add onion and cook, stirring often (notice a theme here?), until softened and golden, 5–8 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring like you mean it, until softened, about 1 more minute.

Stir in rice; season with salt. Cook, stirring, until some grains are translucent, about 4 minutes. Add wine and cook—Never. Stop. Stirring.—until pan is almost dry, about 3 minutes. Ladle in 2 cups broth and simmer, stirring occasionally, until broth is absorbed, 2–3 minutes. Ladle in another 2 cups broth and continue to cook, stirring yet again, until rice is cooked through and most of the broth is absorbed, 5–7 minutes.

Add peas and remaining 1 cup broth and cook, stirring to the very end, until peas are tender, 3–5 minutes. (If using frozen peas, add at the end and cook 1 minute to warm through.) Stir in mint, butter, lemon zest, and 2 oz. Parmesan. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Divide risi e bisi among bowls. Top with shaved Parmesan and reserved crunchy scallions. Drizzle with reserved scallion oil; season with pepper.