Buffalo Wings

Whisk ½ cup mayonnaise and ¼ cup plain yogurt in a small bowl to combine. Stir in 2 oz. crumbled blue cheese (about ½ cup) (dressing will not be smooth). Do ahead: Dressing may be made 8 hours ahead and chilled, covered.

Soak 4 celery stalks, cut into thin sticks in a bowl of ice water at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

TO GRILL WINGS: Preheat grill. Pat 3 lb. chicken wings, wing tips removed and separated into flats and drumettes dry. In a bowl rub 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil onto wings and season with kosher salt. Grill wings on an oiled rack set 5–6" over glowing coals until cooked through and golden brown, 8–10 minutes on each side. TO DEEP-FRY WINGS: In a Dutch oven or other large (5–6-qt.) deep heavy pot, heat 6 cups vegetable oil until a deep-fry thermometer registers 380°. Just before oil reaches 380°, pat dry 3 lb. chicken wings, wing tips removed and separated into flats and drumettes. Carefully lower 6–7 wings into oil and fry, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, golden, and crisp, 5–8 minutes. With a slotted spoon transfer wings to paper towels to drain. Fry remaining wings in same manner, returning oil to 380° between batches.

Melt ¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat; stir in 3–4 Tbsp. hot sauce such as Frank’s or Goya, 1½ Tbsp. apple cider vinegar, and kosher salt to taste. Add grilled or fried wings and toss to coat.

Serve chicken wings warm or at room temperature with blue cheese dressing and celery sticks.