Chitranna

Place 1 cup rice, preferably sona masoori or basmati, in a medium bowl and wash in several changes of water until water is almost clear. Pour in fresh water to cover generously. Let soak 30 minutes.

Drain rice and transfer to a medium saucepan or a rice cooker. Add 1¾ cups water, then mix in ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt and ⅛ tsp. ground turmeric. If using a medium saucepan, bring to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to low. If using a rice cooker, press cook. Cook until rice is tender and there is no water remaining, 12–15 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit, still covered, 10 minutes (this will allow the grains to separate). Fluff rice with a fork and spread out on a rimmed baking sheet; let cool.

If using ¼ cup frozen grated coconut, microwave in a small bowl in 15 second bursts or place in a colander and set under warm running water until thawed. If using ¼ cup dried unsweetened shredded coconut, place in a small bowl and pour in hot water to cover. Let sit until ready to use.

Heat 1 tsp. vegetable oil in a wok or large skillet over medium. Add ¼ cup raw or unsalted roasted peanuts, preferably with skins, and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain; season with salt. Wipe out and reserve wok.

This next part will happen quickly, so measure your ingredients out before you start cooking. Combine 1 tsp. chana dal and 1 tsp. urad dal (if using), ½ tsp. black mustard seeds, and a pinch of asafetida in a small bowl. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in reserved wok over medium-high. As soon as oil is shimmering, add a mustard seed. When the oil around the seed starts to sizzle or the seed starts to move, add remaining spice mixture. Cook, covering with a lid as needed to contain the mustard seeds while they are popping and stirring so mixture evenly toasts, until very fragrant and sputtering has subsided, about 1 minute.

Reduce heat to low. Break 1 dried red chile in half and add to wok. Rub 4–5 fresh curry leaves between your fingers to release oils and add to wok. Cover immediately (the moisture from the curry leaves will cause the oil to spatter). As soon as sputtering subsides, uncover and stir to evenly coat in oil.

Add cooled rice and remaining ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt to wok. Cook, stirring, until combined, about 2 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup fresh grated coconut, thawed frozen coconut, or drained dried coconut and cook, stirring, until combined and warmed through, about 1 minute. Remove from heat.

Cut 1 lemon in half. Coarsely chop leaves and tender stems from ¼ bunch cilantro. Squeeze juice from lemon into chitranna. Measure out 2 Tbsp. chopped cilantro and add to chitranna along with peanuts. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Top chitranna with remaining cilantro. Serve with Green Beans Palya, raita or yogurt, and achar.

Do ahead: Rice can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool in saucepan, then cover and chill. Break up with your hands until there are no clumps before using.