Esqueixada de Montaña (Cured Trout with Tomato, Black Olive, and Onion)

To make the vinaigrette, zest the lemon into the bowl of a food processor. Trim the top and bottom of the lemon, then cut off the peel and pith. Holding the lemon flesh over the food processor bowl, cut out the segments by slicing between the membranes. Squeeze any juice remaining in the membrane, then squeeze any juice in the peel and pith. Add the honey and salt to the bowl and process. With the machine running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream until emulsified. The vinaigrette can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature and shake well before using.

Cut the tomatoes in half through their equators.

Set a box grater over a large bowl. Grate the cut sides of the tomatoes on the large holes until only the skin remains; discard the skins. Stir in the garlic. Cut the rosemary sprig in half, then bruise the sprigs by gently pounding with the dull edge of a knife and add to the tomato mixture. Whisk in the salt and oil. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight for the flavors to meld.

Find a container or shallow dish just large enough to hold the fillets snugly in a single layer. Line the container with plastic wrap with overhang on all sides. Place the fillets in the plastic wrap, skin side down.

Pour the gin on top. Mix the juniper, pepper- corns, salt, and sugar in a small bowl, then spread over the fillets to evenly coat. Cover with the plastic wrap overhang and then cover the whole container with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 4 hours.

Unwrap the trout, rinse off the cure under cold water, and pat dry. Cut the trout off the skin; discard the skin. Cut the fillets into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Remove the rosemary from the tomatoes and spread the tomatoes on a serving platter.

Top with the trout slices. Drizzle the lemon vinaigrette on top, then sprinkle with the onion and olives. Zest the lemon directly on top and serve immediately.