Pasta all'Amatriciana

Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a Dutch oven or large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add 4 oz. thinly sliced guanciale, pancetta, or chopped unsmoked bacon and sauté until crisp and golden, about 4 minutes. Add ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes and ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper; cook, stirring, for 10 seconds. Add ¾ cup finely chopped onion and 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped; cook, stirring often, until soft, about 8 minutes. Add one 28-oz. can peeled tomatoes with juices, crushed by hand, reduce to low heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until amatriciana sauce thickens, 15-20 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with kosher salt; add 12 oz. dried bucatini or spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, until 2 minutes before al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta cooking water.

Add drained pasta to sauce in skillet and toss vigorously with tongs to coat. Add ½ cup reserved pasta water and cook until sauce coats pasta and pasta is al dente, about 2 minutes. (Add a little pasta water if sauce is too dry.) Stir in ¼ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano (about 1 oz.).