Sayur Lodeh (Vegetable Soup With Pressed Rice Cakes)

Rinse the rice 2 to 3 times until the water runs clear. Cook in a rice cooker if you have one (measure rice using a standard measuring cup, not a rice-cooker cup), or on the stovetop, with 2 cups of water.

To prepare the banana leaves, gently unfold them and run one leaf under hot running water to soften. Trim off the tough outer edge with scissors. Cut a length of banana leaf-it has to be big enough to line a loaf pan and have enough overhang, about 5 to 6 inches (12 to 15 cm), to fold over and cover the top.

Line a loaf pan with the banana leaf, shiny-side down (the side with the ridges). If it tears, just patch it with another.

While the rice is still hot, pack it into the pan, pressing down to compress. Fold the two ends of the leaf over so they overlap in the middle. Tuck in the edges. If the leaf isn't long enough, cover the gap with another leaf.

Leave to cool for at least 2 hours. (You can also refrigerate it to speed up the process.) If you leave it in the pan overnight, the rice will be imbued with the delicate, tea-like flavor and fragrance of the banana leaves.

Unmold carefully and peel off the banana leaves. Slice crosswise like a bread loaf and then cut into smaller rectangles or squares.

Make the spice paste by combining the chiles, garlic, shallots, ginger, and ground coriander in a mini food processor. Blitz to form a rough paste the texture of oatmeal.

Swirl the oil into a medium Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot and set over medium heat. When shimmering hot, add the spice paste and fry until it becomes aromatic and turns a few shades darker, 2 to 4 minutes.

Stir in the coconut milk and water. Add the chayote, turnips, carrots, green beans and tofu, and bring to a boil, adding more water to cover the vegetables if necessary. Drop in the galangal, if using, and lemongrass. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cover. Simmer until the chayote and turnips are almost cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes.

Stir in the kale, salt, pepper and sugar. Continue to simmer until the kale is just tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. If possible, let the soup sit for 1 to 2 hours so the flavors can meld.

To serve, distribute Pressed Rice Cakes among 4 to 6 large shallow bowls. Pour ½ to ¾ cup (125 to 200 ml) sayur lodeh and vegetables into each bowl. Sprinkle with fried shallots and serve.