Texas Chili

Place 6 large dried ancho chiles (about 3 oz.), stemmed, seeded, coarsely torn, in a medium bowl. Pour enough boiling water over to cover. Soak until chiles soften, at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.

Drain chiles, reserving soaking liquid, and transfer to a blender. Add 1 cup soaking liquid to chiles in blender along with 6 large garlic cloves, peeled, 2 Tbsp. chili powder, 2 tsp. cumin seeds, 1 tsp. dried oregano, 1 tsp. ground coriander, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt; blend to purée, adding more chile soaking liquid by ¼ cupfuls until mixture reaches a pourable consistency. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350°. Cook 6 oz. bacon, finely chopped, in a Dutch oven or other heavy large ovenproof pot over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown. Add 1¼ lb. onions, chopped (about 4 cups). Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Season one 5-lb. flat-cut beef brisket, cut into 2½"–3" cubes, with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add to pot and stir to coat. Pour ancho chile purée over brisket. Add 1¾ cups fire-roasted diced tomatoes with green chiles with juices, one 12-oz. bottle Mexican beer, one 7-oz. can diced roasted green chiles, and ½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems. Stir to coat.

Bring chili to simmer. Cover, place in oven, and cook 2 hours.

Uncover chili, stir, and continue cooking until beef is almost tender, about 1 hour more. Add 4 cups 1½–2" chunks seeded peeled butternut squash (from a 3½-lb. squash); stir to coat. Cook, uncovered, until beef and squash are tender, adding more chile soaking liquid if needed to keep meat covered, about 45 minutes more. Season chili with salt and pepper. Tilt pot and spoon excess fat from surface.

Ladle chili into bowls and serve topped with fresh cilantro leaves, chopped red onion, pickled jalapeños, diced avocado, shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese, and warm corn and/or flour tortillas (if using). Do Ahead: Chili can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool 1 hour then chill uncovered until cold, cover, and keep chilled. Reheat on low.