Coal-Roasted Eggplants

Prepare a hardwood-charcoal fire in a grill. Let coals cool to medium heat (coals should be covered with ash and glowing red with no black remaining).

Place 2 small eggplants (about 1 pound total) directly on coals and cook, turning occasionally, until skins are blackened and flesh has collapsed, 10-15 minutes. (Alternatively, grill on the grate of a gas or charcoal grill over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, 15-20 minutes.) Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool slightly.

Carefully remove skins from eggplants, leaving stems intact. Place eggplants on a wire rack set inside the same rimmed baking sheet and let stand 30 minutes to allow excess water to drain. Just before serving, split lengthwise and serve with desired sauce.