Lighter fish chowder

Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a large, deep sauté pan. Tip in the prosciutto and fry for 2 mins until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, letting any excess oil drain back into the pan. Set aside. Add the rest of the oil and fry the leeks, garlic, thyme and bay for 2-3 mins until the leeks are starting to soften but keeping their colour. Add the potatoes and fry for 2 mins, turning occasionally. Pour in the stock with an extra 100ml boiling water and gently press the potatoes down so that they are just covered. Bring to the boil. Boil quite vigorously, uncovered, over a high heat for 10 mins until the potatoes are almost cooked. The liquid should have thickened very slightly. Scatter in the chilli flakes, some pepper and a pinch of salt.

Lower the heat to medium and lay the whole fish fillets on top of the potatoes. Season the fish with pepper and gently press down into the broth so that the fillets are only just submerged. Cover and simmer for about 5 mins or until the fish is almost cooked (timing will depend on the thickness of the fillets). Remove from the heat and sit for another 5-10 mins, so that the fish can gently finish cooking. Remove the thyme and bay leaves. Still off the heat, spoon in the crème fraîche and gently swirl around in the broth until it looks creamy.

To serve, gently and briefly reheat. Divide the potatoes and fish (let the fish break into large pieces as you lift it out of the pan) into wide, shallow bowls. Spoon the broth around and scatter with chives, a few thyme leaves and the crisp prosciutto.