Stuffed Squash With Preserved-Lemon Gravy

Heat a dry large skillet over high. Cook olives, shaking pan occasionally, until blistered and starting to char, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl.

Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in same skillet and add red onion, parsnips, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are charred and slightly softened, 7–9 minutes. Stir in cumin, ginger, and allspice and cook just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Scrape vegetables into bowl with olives.

Toast barley in same skillet over medium heat (no need to add more oil), stirring often, until slightly darkened, about 1 minute. Stir in olive brine and cook until evaporated, about 30 seconds. Pour in 2 cups water, bring to a simmer, and cook, uncovered, until water is absorbed, 18–20 minutes (barley will not be fully cooked). Transfer barley to bowl with vegetables. Add figs and apricots and toss stuffing to combine. Do ahead: Stuffing can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375°F. Using a pairing knife, cut out a wide circle around squash stem to create a lid (like preparing a jack-o’-lantern); remove lid. Scrape seeds and strings from squash cavity and bottom of lid with a spoon. Place squash on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Using a pastry brush or your hands, coat inside and outside of squash, including lid, with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil (you may need more for a larger squash).

Season inside and outside of squash with salt. Scoop stuffing into cavity, packing firmly. Replace lid, which should fit snugly. Place any additional stuffing in a ramekin or small baking dish and add ¼ cup water per 1 cup stuffing; cover with foil. Bake squash with any extra stuffing alongside until a knife slides easily through flesh, 70–80 minutes. Remove from oven.

Reduce oven temperature to 350°F. Toast walnuts on a small rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway through, until golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool, then coarsely chop.

Cook garlic, oil, preserved lemon paste, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until oil is starting to sizzle gently and garlic is just beginning to brown around edges, about 2 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook, whisking, 30 seconds. Pour in wine, whisking to combine. Then gradually pour in 1½ cups water, whisking to combine. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, until gravy is thick enough to coat a spoon, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Remove woody stem from top of squash (it should pull off easily) and cut squash into wedges. Using a large sturdy spatula, divide among plates or arrange on a platter and spoon any additional stuffing around. Drizzle gravy over and around, then top with walnuts and herbs.